Norcia is the birthplace of Saint Benedict and is associated with traditional gastronomic food: the black truffle and the “norcinerie” (cold cuts and cheeses). Sadly, Norcia, Castelluccio di Norcia and surrounding villages were damaged by the earthquake of October 2016. A large portion of the Cathedral of Saint Benedict on the main square collapsed. Only the facade is still proudly standing, now with scaffolding keeping it straight. Many shops are closed, the inhabitants live in containers, and many buildings in the town centre cannot be accessed.
A recent article in the Dutch newspaper Volkskrant titled “The green heart of Italy is longing for tourists: Umbria needs you”. This made me decide to go and see for myself what the effect of the earthquake is. It is true, this year isn’t easy for anybody in this area, but it is not dangerous to visit!
Norcia is almost a ghost town. The streets are empty, many shops are closed, houses are uninhabited, and many banks are closed. The police supervise the buildings and empty houses.
In a small shop at the corner of the small theatre square, I spoke with Antonio. Brancaleone da Norcia is a real “norcineria” where you can buy (also online) delicious ham, cold cuts, sausages and sheep cheese.
La Locanda del Teatro is a restaurant on the same square. Antonio accompanied me to Francesco, the owner of the restaurant. “Before the earthquake, it was always busy with people, but look now”, Francesco told me. “Norcia has changed, and we suffer a lot. Hotels are closed, and many people stay away”.
Together with some bars, shops and another restaurant, Francesco continues his activity in Norcia. After October 30th, the day of the earthquake, the inhabitants couldn’t go back into their houses, also Francesco. Last winter, he slept in a caravan with his colleagues. Now they’ve found a small apartment where they live together and continue with the work in the restaurant. They want to give Norcia a future. La Locanda del Teatro is from Francesco’s family for generations. His family has invested in this place, and he doesn’t want to give up. He wants to rebuild Norcia.
It was heartbreaking hearing Francesco’s stories. He loves Norcia and his restaurant, where he grew up. You taste his love and passion in his food. I’ve had a wonderful lunch, the pasta with truffle was outstanding, like the delicious ham and dessert.
Address of the restaurant:
La Locanda del Teatro
Piazza Vittorio Veneto 10
06046 Norcia (PG)
Umbrië, Italië
Tel: +39 (0) 743 817857
This post makes me so sad. We visited Norcia in 2015 and loved it. It is a beautiful town in a gorgeous setting. My heart breaks for what the region is suffering through. We do plan to return; I don’t think we could go more than a year or two without returning.
So heartbreaking – but their spirit is strong!