Since I have been living in Umbria, I always wanted to visit one of the islands on Trasimeno Lake. There are three islands: Isola Polvese, Isola Maggiore and Isola Minore. Between the mainland and the islands, there are regular connections by the Trasimeno Navigation Service. The ferry timetable can be downloaded from the website of Umbria Mobilità (only in Italian).
The largest island on the lake is Isola Polvese. This is mainly a nature reserve and is a good place for a quiet walk around or just to chill at the beach. The Isola Minore cannot be visited, it is a private island. Isola Maggiore is the second largest island of the three and the only island with a handful of permanent inhabitants.
Friends of mine were on holiday in Umbria, and I loved visiting the Isola Maggiore with them. On a sunny morning we took the ferry boat from Castiglione del Lago to Isola Maggiore. Very good idea!
Isola Maggiore is a fishing island on the lake. Here you can eat the typical “queen” carp! But also other typical fish dishes, like tench and pike. A good restaurant to taste the fish from the lake is Ristorante L’Oso. The owner goes out fishing himself and they have a lovely terrace out in the garden overlooking the lake.
For a quick bite, there is a small bar, and a kiosk at the entrance of the small village but also “All’antico Orologio” is a good place for a quick stop.
As we arrived, we walked through the main street uphill. Isola Maggiore is a village with houses dating back to the 14th and 16th centuries. On the top of the hill stands the church San Michele Arcangelo. It is a church from the 12th century and has fine Umbrian school paintings.
The islanders specialized in making Irish lace. There is an Irish lace museum and there are opportunities to buy things too. The Irish lace dates back to around 1900 when a Roman senator built a castle for his wife on the island, which at the moment cannot be visited. His wife was from Ireland and taught the production of Irish lace to the women on the island. To this date, this somewhat unusual tradition on a tiny Italian island is kept alive.
Isola Maggiore is known for one famous visitor: Saint Francis. It is said that he passed the lent period on this island in 1211. In his honour a beautiful small church was built around 1300, bought by the Roman senator who built his castle around it.
We have seen the entire island. It was a beautiful walk of about 1 hour (slow, also for kids) with nice views over Trasimeno Lake. In the afternoon we took the ferry boat back to Castiglione del Lago.
I enjoyed visiting the Isola Maggiore as if I was on holiday myself! Drinking coffee on a nice terrace with a view, strolling around the island. I think I’ll go back again, just to relax and enjoy the calm surroundings!
The water looks marvelous!
The Lake Trasimeno is in good shape, the waterlevel has risen. Thanks to the rain! Find out why: http://villainumbria.me/2014/02/13/high-water-levels-at-lake-trasimeno-umbria/
Sounds like it was a wonderful excursion and the weather looked perfect!
The weather was excellent for a boat trip! It is Springtime in Umbria.
I’ve just added this to my long list of places to visit in Italy. Great job. I want to leave now.
John Henderson
Dog-Eared Passport: http://www.johnhendersontravel.com
@JohnHendeRome
The lake is wonderful right now. The weather is sunny and there’s no wind..excellent moment for taking a stroll.
I love islands! I wonder if we could go to some of them when we are in Umbria next May?
I want to surprise my wife with a visit to the island and the museum. Your article is very evocative. However, I was told by a friend who lives in Umbria that there are actually no shops there that sell locally-made lace. And I cannot find any entries on line for such shops. Did the tradition die out and all that’s left is the museum? Or maybe shops are to be found on the mainland? If you can recommend any outlets, please let me know. Mark
Dear Mark,
Your friend may be right. Until recently there were some elderly ladies that on warm afternoons would sit in front of their door and show their work. It is impossible to know whether they will be there when you visit. There are no real shops selling the lace.
Regards, Saskia
Hi does the ferry to Isola maggiore only run until Sept 25 this year? The timetable seems to suggest that. Thanks
Hi Gary, the ferry also runs after Sept 25, but the timetable will be different. It may not have been published yet. Best, Saskia
Hello!
I did this a few years ago when I was with my husband’s family! It’s beautiful! I am coming back to Umbria with my mother and I am in charge of getting us to places this time! I tried to click the link for the ferry schedule as we would likely come from Castiglione del Lago also but the link isn’t working for me. Any other locations you have found the schedule? Thanks!!
Yes, you’re right, the link has changed. This is the correct link: https://www.fsbusitalia.it/content/fsbusitalia/it/umbria/orari-linee-umbria/orari-servizi-navigazione-umbria.html. Mind that at least until September 30, this year, it is an obligation to wear an FFP2 mouth mask on the ferry. This is an obligation all over Italy in public transport. Enjoy your trip! Saskia
Hi, I and 3 of my friends are visiting Lake Trasimeno for the day and want to take a ferry to Island Maggiore. Does the Ferry operate daily in May? we will be there May 15th. and any suggestions on food and wine.. Not looking for a fancy restaurant but more of a sample of wine and local food.
Hi Karla,
Yes, ferries go every day. Via this link you can download the time table for the period of april-july: https://www.fsbusitalia.it/content/fsbusitalia/it/umbria/orari-linee-umbria/orari-servizi-navigazione-umbria.html
On Isola Maggiore are two good restaurants I’d recommend: Da Sauro and Oso. You cannot really miss either of these. The island is small. They both have a lovely outside terrace in the garden overlooking th lake. There are also a couple of bars where you can eat something.
Enjoy your stay!
Saskia
Hi, is there a beach and can you swim in the water?
Hi Henriette,
There are beaches all around the lake, but mind it is a lake only fed by rain water. And not like in the North with water coming from the mountains. Consequently, this is not a deep lake and ideal for birds. At the beaches you will find that entering the water, there is a lot of clay ground, and no sand. Trasimeno is part of Unesco’s living lakes. At the beaches you can rent canoes and pedal boats, do stand up paddle and more.
Have fun!
Saskia